18-6-11
So we spent the night bush camping, and cooked some 2 minute noodles over the fire. We drive though the Lope National park and head east to Franceville.
We had been undecided on whether or not we should drive south through Gabon to Dolisie. We've heard it might be possible to get a visa for Angola there for US$100. However we hear there are bandits operating on the road between Dolisie and Brazzaville. We decide we want to see more of Congo so will go via Franceville to Oyo in Congo, then take the road south to Brazzaville.
In Brazza we should be able to get visas for DRC and hopefully Angola..
We almost run out of diesel, and if it was not for the 20 l we had in a jerry we would have been stranded.
We arrive in Franceville and are allowed to cap in a hotel's grounds - provided we eat at their expensive restaurant. We meet a Kiwi who is travelling around Africa by public transport. He has just crossed the border where we intend to. He reckons we have no chance getting through the soft sand.
19-6-11
Crossing Gabon -> Congo-Brazzaville
So we left Franceville early so we could take our time and we were anticipating bad conditions. Shortly after Franceville the tar ends and then it is just very soft sand. There are a few places where clearance is an issue, but nothing too stressful.
We stamp out of Gabon and then get to the Congo border post. It is LITERALLY a mud hut in the middle of nowhere. The two officials on duty are looking for some money and we are the ones who must pay.
They check the documents. Passport - check. Vaccinatios - check. Vehicle documents. Check. Visa. Check. They cant think of anything else then ask for "Hotel Reservations". No we dont have this and they know we wont. We are presented with 2 options. Go back to Franceville, book a hotel and return with proof of a booking. OR we can pay a fine of US$400 each to waive this requirement.
We told them, listen we're in no mood for these games, we have NO INTENTION of paying anything, we have paid for our visas and THAT's IT. I tell them I can wait here all day and if need be will camp here for a week, we have food and gas to last us ages, but we arent paying.
So they continue saying we cannot proceed. However I notice that they are completing all our details in the register. If they werent going to let us through then they wouldnt be filling it in. So we just kicked back in the shade and waited.
One of the officials could speak Portuguese but Simone just pretended not to understand what they were saying.
As usual, after a while, we were allowed through...
After some really bad sandy roads we got to some perfect tarred roads. Once we got to the first big town, we were stopped by a friendly policeman. Took us to the police station to complete some forms. Then we were instructed to pay 5000 francs each. We informed him we have paid for our visa's and that was all we were going to pay. There was another standoff, which was odd as the people who were locked up behind bars were watching the whole thing and thought it was quite amusing.
So, as usual, after a while, we were allowed to continue, with our wallets intact.
We thought the worst was over but after a few hours driving, we were stopped by about 40-50 people protesting in the street. It was all friendly to begin with, and they were all dancing with hoe's in hand. Some of the women then asked for some food. Then the requests became demands. Then everyone was shouting and banging on the car. The car was getting hit with the hoe's and I was not keen on this!!
I hit the pedal and miraculously, nobody was hurt. Looking in the rear view mirror there was just a huge black cloud of diesel smoke, and 40 odd people running towards us!
This wasnt a great introduction to Congo. After a few hours it was time to look for a place to camp.
Bush camping was on the cards again. We made a nice braai and managed to get some good sleep.
20-6-11
Another early start - today we are heading for Brazzaville. We leave at 4:30am.
The road is tarred the whole way. The Chinese have been busy and its some of the best roads we've experienced, except for some in Cameroon.
On the way I am not paying attention and we go off the side of the road at 120 kph. Luckily we dont lose control, and manage to gently get the car back on the road. That could have gone seriously wrong!!
We arrive in Brazzaville and head straight to the Angolan embassy to beg/plead for visa's. Nope, not here either. This is getting irritating. We will try again tomorrow see if we can break them down.
We are camping at the Hotel Hippocampe. Olivier and his family let overlanders camp here free. He is a true gentleman and we owe him one, big time! We have a meal in the restaurant - some of the best food we've had in a long time.
There are two other dutch couples staying there too. They've gone from Europe to SA east coast and are now driving back up the west coast. Lucky buggers. Vincent & Karin in a 60 series cruiser, and Gerard & Marlous in a classic VW camper.
We learn from them that the DRC has changed their visa rules. You must apply in your country of residence, or you will be refused entry. They were trying to enter DRC from Angola and were refused entry. They assumed this was because they wanted a bribe, but no it turned out the DRC officials were going by the letter of the law. They ended up camping in no-man's land for 4 days, while getting embassies involved.
So we need to think of a plan to get into DRC.